Corcovado National Park.

Corcovado is Costa Rica’s most biodiverse place in Costa Rica. Remote, pristine, paradisiac, unique. These adjectives don’t make justice to the uniqueness of Corcovado. For years, visiting Corcovado was nothing but a dream for many visitors due to the difficult access, often requiring to spend some nights at Puerto Jimenez to then embark in long, but excellent hike to the different park stations.

In the last few years Corcovado is more accessible partly thanks to the better roads, but also for the logistics from Sierpe River, which makes it possible for visitors based on Manuel Antonio to take a one-day trip, departing at 5:00am, and returning home for late dinner! Still, this is not for the faint of heart and is rather recommended for the keen nature enthusiasts.

The following trip report is written from a naturalist point of view, although it is impossible to skip the birds in such great place!

road trip adventures

On Oct 30th and Nov 1st 2018 I was able to take visitors to this park, an experience we will all remember for years!

The drive is little less than 2hrs, reaching Sierpe on time for breakfast. After some minutes of rest, we met our local naturalist guide and boat man, off we went with high expectations. Crossing the river mouth takes serious boating skills, our captain, Jose has done this for living for all of his life as a fisherman, now in the tourism industry for several years.


Once in the ocean we were fortunate to spot various Brown Boobies, pelicans and frigate birds, including some red-footed Boobies. Then, a Humpbacked whale bridged out in the distance! Our captain took us to enjoy that from a close, yet professionally respectful distance to the creature, which gave us one of the best shows I have seen of these animals.

Boat ride along Sierpe river

The boat ride is about 2hr15min to my favorite station; Sirena, where the probabilities for Tapir are higher. Here we did a wet landing, so shoes off and pants rolled up we dis-embarked.

Tapir is the holy grail and we got one on our first trip, but on the second trip we got 3! Some which allowed good close ups and also nice pictures. These animals are considered the largest terrestrial mammal of CR, noble and quite tame I found.

our first Tapir on trip 1, picture with a smartphone

Manuel Cabalceta and I on Corcovado

Yellow-throated toucan

Male Basilisk. AKA Jesus Christ Lizards.

Great owl butterfly

the great owl predator! Golden orb weaver spider


The trail remains parallel to the beach along most of its length, White-collared Peccaries, Yellow-throated toucans, and White-nosed Peccary were common. This is the only place in the country where one can see all 4 species of monkeys, oh don’t forget the Scarlet macaws which we got several times!

Lunch is included at the ranger station at noon, after some minutes of break we went back to explore a bit more. The second leg of the hike is productive, we explored some of the habitat near the river, nearby we heard the alarm calls of spider monkeys which brought us hope to find the Puma, unfortunately unsuccessful. Pumas are not seen every day, but the possibility is there, just hope for some good luck!

Male Great Curassow


My new English friends! Amy and Jasper.

White collared pecary

Great tinamou

Forgive the graphic details. Spider Monkey

Our ride back was ready at 2:30pm, with a quick stop at the mangroves of Sierpe to explain about this important habitat.

If you are keen to visit Corcovado, please contact me, visit and I will be happy to explore this place with you!



Birding Cloudbridge and San Gerardo de Rivas — Global big-day Oct 6th.

A big day, year, sit, or any period of time you decide to call it is an event in the birding community where birdwactchers try to record the highest number of birds possible within that period of time – again, day or year! and list could be a yard list, feeder list, state/province, country, or even the whole world! Its a fun and friendly competition of between birders. Some call it the wold cup of the birding industry!

On Oct 6th the second Global Big day was celebrated, and unlike a personal big day, on this event teams work hard to get the biggest number possible to put their respective countries high on the list (whilst I am sure many teams also are eager to tip their country team “competitors”!). I had the chance to join my friends Andres Chaves “El Socio”, Eidel Chaves “Socio jr” and Oscar Herrera. We decided to bird Cloudbridge and part of the trail that leads to Costa Rica’s most strenuous hike; Chirripó mountain, an excellent place for furnarids, our main wanted group, with our target species being Buff-fronted, Scaly-throated, and Lineated foliage-Gleanes are our target list, we therefore called our team “The foliage-gleaners”.

The Team. Cameras, audio recorders, bins and scopes, boy we were off to a great day! Form L to R: Andres, Oscar, Eidel, Johan.

We arrived to Cloud bridge at 6:45am and soon began to bird, we got the common forest edge species such as Snowy-bellied, Stripe-tailed hummingbirds, Red-faced Spine tail, purple-crowned Fairy and others, as typical of this place, the entrance area was quite productive.

Snowy-Bellied Hummingbird, a common regional endemic.

Once we ventured into the forest we found the activity to be quite slow, despite the beautiful sunny day we had (3-4 days of non-stop rain just had ended), still we continued and too the trail that leads to the Chirripo’s main trail (4km area), the is quite steep, and often difficult to carry a tripod, during the first 2 hours we got some iconic species such as Resplendent Quetzal, Northern Emerald Toucanet,  rufous-browed Peppershrike, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, PLENTY of Brown-capped Vireos, and after several more birds we finally recorded our first Lineated Foliage-Gleaner!

Then, followed by almost 1hr of CERO activity and about 2km of ascending a very steep, open habitat we finally cough up with some more highlights, which included the beautiful Brown-billed Scythebill which allowed some good audio recordings and some documentation pictures, very nice to bring back the energies to continue! Other common birds here included both Collared and Slate-throated Redstars, Tufted Flycatchers and Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush, but if that was not enough, a pair of Golden-browed Chlorophonias came into the view!

Collared Redstar – a regional endemic, common at highlands and middle elevations.

Tufted Flycatcher

The Brown-billed Scythebill

Female Golden Browed Chlorophonia

Once we made it to the 4th kilometer junction, we all took a short break, but in the meantime were quite eager to spot the SIlvery-throated Jay–a bird I have never seen before, nevertheless we were not fortunate to find.😣

Later as we began the 4 kilometers steep descend we were fortunate to get another furnarid; “Buffy Tuftedcheek!”-screamed Oscar, then Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Spotted Barbtail and then, one of our targets: Buff-fronted Foliage Gleaner a bird I had seen few times in San Gerardo de Dota, Los Quetzales NP, and other sites.


Buffy Tuftedcheek.

Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, Considered a rare inhabitant of mossy cloud-forest













Spot-crowned Woodcreeper

In Resume, birding here, like many middle-elevation sites is all about mixed flocks, and if you are lucky with a few flocks along your hike it can be a superb day of birding, we considered it to be a very slow day but it did produce some highlights -we all agreed Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner to be the bird of the day!. Nevertheless we recorded 87 species for the day.

After all, we all had learned that the best part of these events are not just the birds, it is the companion, the jokes, the food at the field, and the many memories to take in our minds of a wonderful day with people who sahre the same passion; BIRDS!

The ebird List can be seen at

late lunch

I was curious what was past the sign “Outdoor Rustic Bathroom”

Chirripo trail


Our team “flag”


Birding Puriscal area — Bocana

Bocana de Puriscal is located just north of the little visited la Cangreja National park, this in the province of San Jose.

The area suffered severe deforestation decades ago , and unfortunately what must have been precious foothill and parts of middle elevation forest is now turned into cattle pasture, and agriculture fields. Nevertheless the pioneer farmers kept a narrow strip of forest
along the ravines on which the small creeks run down the mountains, these have been extremely important habitat to the few species that were able to adapt to this serious forest alteration.

I usually get to visit this place 3 to 5 times a year to visit family and I always get to enjoy some birding at this place, it is excellent for owling, at times I have seen literally three species of owls perched on the same branch in a gap of 1.5 hours!

On this this trip I spent 2 days Birding along the track down the mountains -each trip was about two to three hours -. This time it was geared with my recorder to collect some audio as well as with my camera.

Again, the Level of deforestation , and the way the forest have been narrowed down to a slim strip had made made it

easier to get species that are otherwise extremely difficult such as scaly breasted wren, basically every time I come here I get to see this bird and to even good decent pictures of this elusive little wren.

Other species that favor this kind of habitat are Sulphur-rumped flycatcher which remains near water.

Other typical species that are nearly always seen here include the near endemic endemic Black-hooded Antshrike, fiery billed aracary, spot crowned euphonia, although the later can be easily see at open habitat.

Tropical Gnatcatcher.

The Fiery-billed Aracari is a common bird here. A near endemic shared with Panama


Despite the steep walk I always find birding here quite productive as the track is essentially along the creek, so does the forest, like this it is easy to follow foraging troops as the line of forest dictates their traveling pattern. Now, from a photographer’s perspective, it is great to walk down the hill so birds are seen near eye level.

This might not be a place for the tourist to visit as it would be a bit hard to fit in an itinerary unless your birding trip is off the beaten path, although if you are a Costa Rican or an simply someone retired and living near Puriscal, it might worth to bird the area, you never know what you can get.

The lists:

Pale-billed Woodpecker

Some of the audio recordings:

Lesson’s motmot

Rufous-and-white wren

Blue-crowned manakin

Blue ground dove

Female gartered trogon

Birding Esquinas Rainforest lodge and Coto 47 – Field trip.

Between July 16th to July 18th I had the opportunity to lead a birding trip to the southern Pacific side of Costa Rica to my friends Jim and Gretchen Peterson whom I have had 4-5 consecutive years the opportunity to be their guide while during their last birding trips to Costa Rica.

After three years of trying Scaly-breasted Wren unsuccessfully we decided to try luck at Esquinas Rain-forest Lodge. My friends picked me up from Quepos and so another adventure began. We did some stops along the way,  including El Rey Marsh, where in just 20-30 minutes we got some of the common birds nevertheless the highlight was no doubt American Pygmy-Kingfisher.

A long drive we saw Gray and Roadside Hawks as well as a Double-toothed Kite perched on a wire (a bit unusual). We got to the town of La Gamba and began our Birding; our first birds included Red-crowned Woodpecker which is very common naturally, some of the typical Seedeaters, then Blue-headed Parrots flew over providing us some quick -poor views but fortunately later on we were able to spot some perched. As we continued we found Rusty-margined Flycatcher, one of our targets, then we stopped at River right before getting to Esquinas and we got entertained seeing a Band-tailed Barbthroat and then one of our targets showed up, Red-rumped Woodpecker, we began to run out of targets so soon! recording of the BTBT

Esquinas Rainforest Lodge

Curassows are the stars of the show here.

After dinner we went to do some owling which produced two owls; Black-and-white Owl and Tropical Screech-Owl, unfortunately we missed Striped Owl and potoos.


Gladiator tree frog

The next morning and with big expectations we decided to take the riverbed trail, soon enough we got one of the 2 main targets for Jim, Striped Woodhunter along with some of the common species including Great Curassow, Black striped and orange-billed sparrows, Bairds Trogon, the Costa  Rica only endemic Black-cheeked Anttanager and others.

After breakfast we had to focus on our next target; Scaly-breasted Wren, and taking Julia’s recommendation we took the waterfall trail looping back via la Fila trail and finally we were able to hear 1 singing! as we approached to its location our sudden moves and a bad maneuver from my part flushed the wren away, three years of effort flushed away in front of her eyes!! As rain came upon us we had to continue down the Fila trail and we found a small mixed flock feeding with an army ant swarm, after seeing a couple of Tawny-winged Woodcreepers, Bicolored antbirds, gray-headed Tanager, Lesson’s Motmot, another Scaly-breasted Wren sang so we knew we were back in the game!. After less than a minute of play back that little brown and elusive wren flew in front of us, walked up for 3 to 4 feet and began to call in front of us, great success!

On our Next day, after a short birding session and a good breakfast we left for Coto 47, a marshland south of Esquinas, not far from the Panama border. Although first we stopped at the Hospital road we got Sapphire-throated Hummingbird as the highlight. Later not one but three Gray-lined Hawks! We were just missing the famous Savanna hawk at this point.

Later we went to the sector known as Las Pangas, the flooded conditions where ideal for the thousands of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, hundreds of Northern Jacanas, however, we had to be so lucky to stop at a spot, where after some scanning I was able to spot a pair of Masked ducks! a new species to my life list, and new for Gretchen and Jim’s CR list! A duck I had tried many times at San Vito in the past!

A picture Gretchen got of me while digiscoping my lifer.

After that we then continued to another spot for more Red-rumped Woodpecker, unfortunately, given the floods suffered in the area some months ago the habitat is gone, nevertheless we got many Crested Oropendolas and a pair of Brown-throated Parakeet. After this, we checked another marsh and got a good glossy ibis, and right after that a bird that had characteristics of a Hybrid Northern x Wattled Jacana was foraging near the road.

The Hybrid Jacana, I saw, exactly on the same spot what I presume is the same individual (?) back in September

Followed that we had our last stop, Savanna hawk. I took Gretchen  and Jim to one of the spots and as we scanned the trees Jim asked – “Do they perched on the fence posts?” and soon enough a hawk was been harassed by some kiskadees and perched on the post – “now we know they do” I said!! (seconds before I just had said I had never seen them on posts, but only on trees, dead branches or the ground!).

Savanna Hawk

This is a trip I particularly enjoyed guiding, excellent and challenging at the same time due to the tough targets but above all for the wonderful companion. Enjoyed every minute of it.


Celebration selfie! From left to Right: Gretchen, me and Jim.

Photos by Jim and Gretchen.


Cuba trip report: part 2, Birding Playa Larga with Angel Martinez

On May 17th I met my guide Angel Martinez just about sunrise and we drove to Soplillar, Angel’s favorite Birding spot, unfortunately due to the weather we had to skip the location for Zapata wren as the chances for rain were high and Angel wanted to get me as much of birds as possible so we had to sacrifice one for the others.

Female Fernandina’s flicker. Endemic to Cuba, forages on the ground,somewhat resembling an ani, often clings onto low trunks.

Once at the first spot the fun began and we got some of the birds I wanted to see the most just within 5-10min from our arrival; Cuban trogon which during the time I was there I learned that It was very common, great lizard cuckoo (which was seen several times at different sites we were at) and Fernandina’s flicker, which apparently is not too common here according to Angel.

Later, my first crow flew right in front of us! Cuban crow.

We walked a little more while having a nice chat and seeing some birds, Angel took me to a narrow trail he knew he could get more of my targets, sure enough Cuban tody was there followed by Cuban vireo! Also white-crowned pigeon which in Costa Rica is a rarity, here I enjoyed more than a dozen of them!

Great Lizard cuckoo


This location basically consisted of open scrub habitat with some partially flooded pastures, Angel mentioned that it will be unpassable some months later due to the flooded conditions.

Then back to our ride, Angel took me to a forested area where they regularly get the quail-doves, however we were not lucky at that moment, we walked out of the forest to an open marshy area and got one of the ducks I desired to see the most, and never ever thought I could see it in Cuba!; wood duck, what a beautiful duck! Later a Cuban pygmy-owl and various other birds more were seen here.




Bare-legged owl, formerly known as Cuban screech-owl

Later Angel took me to a spot to see the cuban screech owl (Bare-legged Owl) which we got. I did know of this location based on other bird- trip reports I read prior to my visit as well as eBird lists, I thought that I could find the owl on my own, NO WAY! you need Angel as your guide! He knows every perch and roost. Here we got a pair of Gray-fronted quail-dove (resent split from gray- headed q-D).

The rain started, nonetheless he was determined to get me more birds, at another location he took me to show me the nest of a bee hummingbird (extremely small naturally, we got La Sagra’s flycatcher, Cuban pewee and black-whiskered vireo, the later one is abundant here, however it is uncommon in Costa Rica.

Then the storm came in, putting an end to our trip, a pity because it was so exciting to get so many quality life birds, but also sharing with a colleague of another country. On our way back we got antilliant nighthawk.

Although it was only half a day due to the rain I enjoyed every moment, every bird and all the chatting with Angel.

Angel Martínez García Cellphone 01 5294 1853 email:

In PLaya Larga we stayed at a Casa Particular, since the last 3 years the Cuban government is allowing people to rent rooms, we found, through a recommendation a house named Casa Yaima

Yaima Reyes – Phone (0053) 54115198 email: Yaima is a wonderful host, and she went the extra mile to make sure we had all we needed, particularly since we had our son and getting somethings for him was not so easy. Her house/room is extremely clean, excellent location, you will be happy staying here.

Part 1: Introduction, logistics, recommendations, playa Larga, stygian owl and bee hummingbird

Part 2: Birding Playa Larga with Angel Martinez

Part 3:

Part 4:


Cuba – Trip report; part 1

Cuba is a country full of history, wonderful beaches, extremely friendly people and of course with endemic birds any birder would wish to see! but also with unique politics!

I had the pleasure to visiting this interesting country between May 15-24th 2018 on a family holiday. We did all of the planning on our own using recommendations given to us by other friends whom I am thankful for sharing their experience. Blogs and traveling sources such as Loney planet were of great help. eBird was extremely helpful when I planned the birding sites, but also helped on getting an idea where my targets were most likely seen at, for the bird Field guide I used “Birds of the west Indies” by Raffaele, Wiley, Garrido, Keith and Raffaele. 2003 Princeton university press.

A bit of an old book now but I combined Avibase and eBird for updated taxonomy.

For maps and navigation I used an app called, you can download the entire map of a country so you can use offline, notice that the internet in Cuba is from the stone age (will detail later) so using google maps is almost impossible. Like Google maps you can put markers, use it as a GPS, search for places etc.

The following trip report will be (as usual) written in English hoping to help a larger audience, however I also hope to help Costa Ricans who are planning a similar trip get their ideas to put a trip together, I wish I could had found a report as detailed as I am hoping this one to be. This was not a 100% birding trip due to our son’s age, but I did my efforts to get as many as I could. So if you are a birder the most helpful information will be between May 15th to the 20th, the rest is mostly beach and city traveling.

Did I mention Cuba is also well known for their old cars?


We used Copa Airlines and found tickets for us$553 round trip for the 2 of us and our baby son (he was on our lap) with a connection flight in Panama each way (1hr30min approx). The flight to Panama took about 1hr and from Panama to Cuba 2hr10min (Costa Rica to Panama and then Cuba).

NOTICE that Cuba requires a travelers visa, we bought ours in the Cuban embassy for us$15 per person. You can buy it from Copa Airlines at their booth at the CR airport for us$60pp if I am not wrong. You can also buy it in Panama at the Copa Airlines desk for cheaper I believe. In CR Cubana de aviación (Cuban airlines) sells it for $25. Make it simple, just buy it at the embassy if you want to save $ or just do it in Copa Airlines desk (airport) if you can not make a trip to San Jose just for it.

A Travelers insurance is mandatory. We bought from INS in Quepos (A Costa Rican insurance company). Us$50 per adult.

Getting out of the Cuban airport was no so bad. It is a small airport (yes! Even smaller than San Jose CR). Once outside, as usual there are many taxis who are offering their service, we, however never felt harassed by them, instead they made a respectful approach and kindly offered their service. We stood aside, saw the panorama and picked a driver/taxi of our preference. Our driver, a man named Alex, good driver and quite talkative, during our 20 min ride to our hotel in Havana gave us some friendly info about the country. Cellphone 53479157. Again, too many drivers, I did manage to get a drivers contact (although I did not use his service), he drives a toyota Hiace with rooms for 12 people: Delfin Cordero phone 52822134 email A private trip to places like Varadero cost approximately 150 cuc for a private ride ($180 approximately, find out about the exchange) for a family of 5, but a taxi for 2 should be between 90-100 CUC ($105 us$).

Cuba uses 2 currencies; the one used by the locals called CUP or Moneda nacional, which is about 23CUP to 1 CUC, and the other Currency is the CUC or moneda convertible, which is what tourists use, 1CUC = $0.70 or 1 Euro. I DO NOT recommend to use US dollars, use Euros instead as they have more acquisitive power. In Cuba you will find CADECAS, which is the place you can change currency, they as almost everything in Cuba belong to the government so the exchange is official.

We booked a room in Habana very near Viazul as we had a bus ticket to Playa Larga the next day. In Cuba you can stay at hotels, all run by the government but also you can rent rooms at private homes for a much better fee. We used VRBO (how was life before VRBO!?) and got a room for 25 CUC / $30 for the night! The rooms was very nice, very clean with TV hot shower and full A/C. Our hosts Miss Onelia, mr Carlos and daughter Sandra were super friendly and accommodating, we felt like at home thanks to their help. Onelia Rodriguez and Sandra Negrin. On this night we ate dinner at Habitania, which is walking distance from Viazul, I consider this the best dinner I had in Cuba! MAP HERE.


Restaurant Habitania

One of the 2 species of hummingbirds in Cuba, Cuban emerald is the most common of them, this was seen at the garden of our VRBO in La Havana.


Red legged thrush! why can’t our thrushes be this pretty?

Highlights of the day were Red-legged thrush (very common in Cuba), Cuban emerald.

      May 16th. After a delicious breakfast made by Miss Onelia we walked to Viazul as we had a bus to catch at 7:00am. They’d requested to be there one hour before. Our destination was Playa Larga where the Zapata Marsh is at.

The Viazul office.

VIAZUL: This is a bus company that offers transportation to most famous destinations (To Costa Rican readers: our Tracopa of 1990s!) the transportation in Cuba is a bit rustic as you must know, you can go by private taxi if you can afford it, or if you go to the office of Viazul there are taxis who offer a shared ride, we met other tourists who asked us if we were willing to take a taxi and divide the cost; we already had our Viazul tickets so we did not shared a taxi.

When you book a bus ticket through Viazul website and plan to go to Playa Larga it is hard to understand their website, there is a ride that goes from Havana and ends in Trinidad and does some stops to drop people off. The options that you have to buy on this ride do not mention Playa Larga, you must buy tickets to Playa Giron which pases by Playa Larga and simply get off in Playa Larga, cost is us$13 pp. The ride took about 2hr45min with a 10min stop at a restaurant called Pio Cua, south of Australia, yes! Australia! where I managed to see the following birds:

Little Blue Heron
Cattle Egret
Turkey Vulture
Cuban Emerald
American Kestrel
Gray Kingbird
Red-legged Thrush
Yellow-faced Grassquit
*Tawny-shouldered Blackbird
*Greater Antillean Grackle
House Sparrow Passer domesticus


We finally arrived to Playa Larga at 9:45am, we took a “taxi-bike” ride to our Airbnb which was fun and cost us 2 cuc (little more than $2).

Here in Cuba there are plenty of Bike-taxis, with room for 2 and even luggage! the cheapest way to get around.

We were now established and went on a recon walk into the small village to buy groceries and here is where the first difficulty was faced; we were told that the cuban stores were not as supplied as those of other countries, but I never thought that this was that extreme! We had difficulties finding even the most basic things, no beans, no meat, no eggs! We really had to improvise using what we could, yes! There are some restaurants with excellent seafood as well as typical Cuban food but even there sometimes somethings from the menu were unavailable, not a problem if you are adults only but when traveling with a small child it makes things very, very hard.

We ended having lunch at a place called Chuchi el pescador. One of the best places we were told. Later on the day we figured that if you walk towards the local clinic/hospital there are many more options. Our walk produced 5 new birds; where the highlight was Cuban oriole, Cuban black-hawk, and west Indian woodpecker. 

West indian woodpecker


Here is where I want to advise you to bring as much as you could from your country in terms of food and snacks, items of personal use e.g batteries, face tissues, PLENTY of insect repellent (Dont you dare to come to Playa Larga without it!) medicines, sunblock, cereal bars, basically anything you might need.

During our walk in town, I met a man who figured I was looking for birds and recommended to go to a place for the bee hummingbird, or as it is called in Cuba; Zumzumbito, so glad he mentioned that as I knew there was a spot for that but did not know where exactly, a Taxi charged us 12cuc for round trip and waiting time. This place is located in the town of Pálpite, about 15minutes north of Playa Larga and it is well known, see the map here (22.326217,-81.183535 coordinates), mr Bernabe and Mrs Juana keep their garden with feeders, so getting the smallest bird of the world here is quite easy indeed.

Bernabe’s contact. No reservation is needed, just walk in, there is no official fee but he does expect a tip to pay for the sugar etc.


Yes, there is a better photo!

Bernabe is quite familiar with the local birds, clearly he is used to receive birders and photographers.

Back in Playa larga, at dusk I got Antilleant nighthawk, and thanks to the recommendation of a local expert guide, Angel Martinez I got one of the owls I had wished to see the most; Stygian owl! Here the maps to the precise location on which I saw it:

Stygian owl

Part 1: Introduction, logistics, recommendations, playa Larga, stygian owl and bee hummingbird

Part 2: Birding Playa Larga with bird guide Angel Martinez

Part 3:

Part 4:



Global Big day 2018

On May 5th 2018 another Global Big Day was celebrated, I was able to join my friend Oscar Herrera and called our team “Solitary sandpipers”.

We visited La Marta Wildlife refuge, we left Manuel Antonio by midday and arrived by 7:00pm after some stops along the way. After dinner we immediately ventured into the forest to do some photography.


May 5th, up and ready just about sunrise. We were waken by the many birds near the open habitat right at the main building.

Tawny-crested Tanager, fairly common at this location.

The area by the gate and the road that leads towards the camping site is very, very productive, we got various flocks of tanagers where black and yellow tanagers and emerald tanagers were the highlights and also quite common. The flowers along the road produced snowcap, Bronze tailed plumeleteer, purple crowned fairy and crowned woodnymph. We found that spending the time here was quite good since it produced the largest amount of birds seen on the day thanks to the fruiting trees (Melastomataceae) on the area.


Black and yellow tanager

The forest at La Marta is quite interesting, La Marta is a large reserve and most of it used to belong to the Hacienda La Marta, a huge coffee and sugar cane plantation that used to operate between 1890s to 1920’s. One can still see the vestiges of what seems was a prosperous hacienda.

Most of the forest that can be accessed consists of advanced secondary growth, and the primary forest is quite far and we were told it would take 3-4hrs hiking to get to. Our expectations were a bit higher as we were comparing it with a nearby reserve; the amazing El Copal. However, this site is known as one of the best in Costa Rica for the rare Lanceolated Monklet, special thanks to PATRICK O’Donnell for the heads up! We got a bird reply to our playback and it flew over our heads, allowing only quick views but enough to count it in the GBD, however, we went back to the location and were able to see it, after a long and patience wait, this had been the second time I had seen this small, hard-finding bird.

Cellphone photo by Oscar H.


The lodging here is very, very simple (fine to us, and quite fun indeed), but if you are looking for some luxury this is not your place. We were the only ones and were able to use the kitchen to prepare our own meals, reservations must be made if you plan to stay here, however if you plan to visit for the day you can just drop by and pay the entrance fee, the road from the town of Pejiballe is in excellent conditions.


WARNING: If you plan to visit Tapanti NP after La Marta and are considering taking the short cut that leads towards El Copal, keep in consideration that the road to El copal is in excellent conditions, however, the road 3 km ahead of El Copal gets pretty bad, then it becomes a rally cross track (literally) we drove on it and I will NEVER will again, I just wish I knew that before.

This “mortal danger” warning sign did not stop us from birding

Oscar Herrera (right) and me at La Marta.



Birding Medio Queso and Caño Negro.

Caño Negro and Medio Queso, located Near Los Chiles in the northern zone of CR near the Nicaraguan border are (along with Palo Verde) known as one of the best marshlands in the entire country.

On April 9th I was able to join a group of birders, all friends and guides from the Manuel Antonio area, we left home at 1:00am and drove straight to Medio Queso, were Rafa was waiting for us. Map:

The canal at Medio Queso

We began our trip at 6:45am, inmediatly we got one of the highlights of the ride; Least bittern, perched on a reed at the edge of the canal, thus allowing us great looks, and why not? pictures! Naturally you can expect the typical herons such as boat-billed, yellow-crowned and Black crowned Night herons, etc.

Least bittern

Pinnated bittern








The boat ride took about 2hrs30min and we got most of the target species the group was looking for, including yellow-breasted crake, lesser yellow headed vulture, pinnated bittern, snail kite, ruddy breasted seedeater and other highlights such as canebrake, black-throated wrens, and bare-crowned antbird.

Snail kite

Yellow breasted cuckoo, this is a life bird for me! very exciting!

The boat used by Rafa is small, although enough room for us 9, although no roof so be ready for PLENTY of sun, or rain in the event of! Rafa has been a little irregular with his service lately, he sends a young man to ride the boat instead, this young man speaks no english just to keep in consideration, still this is the ONLY option for Medio Queso. Contact: Rafa Palacios +506-6385-3315


We then drove to Caño Negro which is Sout east of Los Chiles, about 21 KM but expect bad road conditions and it might take an hour to get there. Once we got there our lcoal guide and boatman Jimmy Guitierrez was waiting for us.

The boat here is different, spaceful and comfortable with a nice roof and 4 stroke engine. The habitat here at Caño negro is different, although there are some species in Medio Queso you wont otherwise get here, therefore doing both trips is an excellent way to get the most variety.

The view from the Tower at Caño Negro

With Karen at the Caño Negro tower

This trip was very productive and not only did get more variety but also got most quality, the best birds to me were American white Pelican, which had been showing to Caño Negro the last 3 years, Black-collared hawk, nonetheless other good birds include Jabiru, Costa Rica’s largest bird, green and glossy ibises, and sungrebe.

Both locations are a recommended, and it can be fitted in an itinerary if birding lactions such as La Fortuna and  Sarapiqui areas.

At the end of the trip, I ended with 4 new species for CR list, 3 life birds and several for the year list, what a fantastic trip indeed!


Black collared hawk

Spectacled caiman, common at Caño Negro

Looking for white pelicans

Our team! From L to R Edwin Castillo, Elias Mora, Oscar Herrera, Dixon, Eidel Chaves, Andres Chaves, Dennis Reyes, Karen Castillo, Johan Chaves


Trip report: Birding with Susan and Ian Hardy part 2:

Day 4. San Gerardo de Dota.

Trogon Lodge

Cold in the highlands of CR! Not my favorite part of a trip, just consider I am use to the hot and humid 34ºC/93ºF of the lowlands of the central Pacific where I live!

We were fortunate to see the resplendent Quetzal on our first day up close, so there was no need to go early to the well known spot where everyone sees the quetzal, so we focused our attention to new birds, after some garden species and a good breakfast we took the waterfall trail and got a couple of small mixed flocks that produced our first Flame-throated and Black-cheeked warblers, Sooty capped and common (super common should I say?) Chlorospingus. various thrushes and long-tailed silky-flyactchers were nicely posing for pictures.

Larger flocks were compound by  furnarids, including a buffy tufted-cheek, spotted barbtails along with gray brested woodwren and more, later we got a close pair of Torrent tyrannulet and  american Deeper, and just when we thought we were done a male resplendent quetzal was seen feeding on “little avocados”.


After a late lunch we spent some time at Miss Miriam’s cafe for some photography, and just before our dinner at Trogon we went our for Dusky nightjar, the only endemic nightjar/Caprimulgid we have.




Day 5. Time for hummingbirds! We had some new birds at San Gerardo, including hairy woodpecker, rufous-browed peppershrike. We then moved to the upper mountains, where the telecommunication towers are at to look for Timberline wren and Volcano Junco, which we got after half an hour of search, this at an elevation of 3400+ meters.

Our next stop was Paraiso Quetzal for lunch and hummingbirds, fiery-throated hummingbird of course was seen here. The feeders bring basically 3-4 species, good chances for photos, but notice Flash is COMPLETELY forbidden at the feeders, but if you pay the fee they charge then you can use flash! even set up multi-flash! (Sarcasm). There is a small building dedicated for hummingbird photography where you can set up your multiflash. Food here is really good and the trails produce Wrenthrush and timberline wren. After some photography it was time to our next lodge; Rancho Naturalista, with some stops for Sedge wren and fasciated tiger-heron.

Sooty thrush at Miriam’s

Ochraceous wren seen various times at San Gerardo

Day 6 Rancho Naturalista.

We started very early so we could enjoy the moth light, we got many of the regular species that attend to it, plain-brown and northern barred woodcreepers, red-throated anttanagers, white throated woodwren and many, many more.

The breakfast bell rang! So we walked back to the dinner, the bird feeders are quite active, many gray headed Chachalacas abound, thrushes, oropendolas, collared aracaries, motmots and more, and for our surprise a Chiriquí Quail-dove came under the feeders, a bird seen by Meche (Mercedes), a local birder at Rancho who reported this bird some days ago here.

The trails at Rancho are well known for many specialty birds, including Tawny-Chested Flycatcher, Checker-throated antwren, Dull-mantled antbird and more. The Verbena is well known for Snowcap, a Classic at Rancho. Also, there is access to some nearby birding sites; a guide friend Cali, was very nice on pointing a place for Sunbittern which thanks to his help we got, Ian has some beautiful pictures he got there!


Carlos Rodriguez “Cali” +506 8571-6877

Herman Venegas +506-889-34847

Both great local bird-guide for Rancho and surroundings. Great resident guides Mercedes Alpizar and Harry Barnard are available too.


Male crowned woodnymph


The food at Rancho is exquisite!

Day 7th and 8th. Our morning was spent on the gardens and some trails, the goal was to improve the pictures Ian had taken of the Snowcap, after lunch we then drove to El Copal, a reserve I was very keen to bird as it said to extremely good!

It was fantastic! we were received by a large flock of Tanagers, emerald, crimson collared, paserinni’s, black-and-yellow tanagers, euphonias, and the rare Rufous-browed tyrannulet, what a welcome we all said!

El Copal is a reserve owned by a cooperative of Farmers, who had decided to keep this place for conservation, and with it they manage to help maintain their economy. The place is nestled in the jungle, solar panels will help you keep your electronics charged, a weak wifi network, no cellphone reception, but extreme peace, great food, great birding, friendly hosts and a wonderful experience awaits for you here at El Copal!


Patricia +506-8880-0432 / +506 2531-2124


Lovely dinner at El Copal.

Day 8: We spent all morning birding EL copal, then drove to La Selva Biological Station.

Notice that the road from The town of El Pejiballe and el Humo is in percet conditions as some work is currently been done, but the road from the gate to the reserve still is in bad conditions, you need a 4WD vehicle to get there. If you are renting 2WD then consider hiring Mauricio, who can drive you in his 4WD to the place and pick you up for the way back, he can arrange a place to leave your rental car. CONTACT Mauricio +5068828-4561 NO english.


Keel-billed toucan

White vented euphonia

Day 9: La Selva.

Nothing new I can say here but to join the rest of the people that go to la Selva, it is SUPER!

Our day began with Great-green macaw which were feeding on an Tonka Bean/ almond tree (Dipterix panamensis)  then the famous great Currasows along with the common garden species. After breakfast we walked into the forest where we spent the rest of the morning.

Trail at La Selva


After lunch we visit Frogs heaven, a great place for frog (yes you guessed right!) photography.  Jose +506 8891-8589


Day 10: Last Day. We bird La Selva again in the am to getting the last few new birds for the trip, we birded some of the surroundings to get Nicaraguan Seed-Finch which was one of the top 3 requested species (and we got them all) after lunch we did a variation of the trip and decided to skip Braulio Carillo and visited Cope instead, so Ian could enjoy the last day doing some photography. Fortunately Cope was able to clear some hours for us and as usual he gave as a very warm welcome to his house! We got good birds there including Russet-naped woodrail, white-tipped sicklebill, various tanagers, woodthrush and more. Other creatures we photographed were Jesus Christ lizards, helmet headed lizard, three toed sloth and of course the spectacled owl and white tent-making bats on the trail he took us to.

Male black-throated trogon, the last trogon of the trip.

Nicaraguan Seed-finch


From right to left: Jose “cope” Ian, Susan, me.

The trip was very successful, 10 days, 5 lodges, 352 species, plenty of photos and wonderful experiences! and of course new friends in England!

Three toed sloth


Trip Report. Birding with Susan and Ian Hardy: Part 1

Between March 2nd to March 11th I had the opportunity to lead a 10-day trip for a couple of birders from England; Ian and Susan Hardy, well experienced birders who had been to the neotropic in various occasions.

Our itinerary included a nice combination of habitats, birding some of Costa Rica’s well known localities as we as those little more off-the-beaten path; Carara which includes lowland transition between dry forest to rain-forest. San Gerardo de Dota, Pacific middle and high elevation. Rancho Naturalista and El Copal reserve with it’s amazing caribbean middle elevation and foothills. Then La Selva biological station and its amazing Caribbean lowland VERY humid forest.

Day 1, we change our route slightly given Ian photography requests and we drove up to the mountains of Poas, stopping at Freddo Fresas for hummingbirds and coffee, although activity was very slow, our first birds of the trip were Baltimore oriole, mountain elaenia, sparrows, purple-throated Mountain-gem, purple sabrewings, and some others.

We then continued to the famous La Paz waterfall (El Angel). A quick stop here produced American deeper, after that and some good Costa Rican corn bread and snacks we continued to Mirador Cinchona; Ian’s main target of the day was awaiting.

The feeders at soda y mirador Conchona were, as usual, quite good. Red headed Barbet, Northern Emerald-toucanet, prong billed barbet were there along with the various common tanager species that fill the feeders. We also got some specialties such as the white-bellied Mountain-gem, green Thorntail, and coppery headed emerald. Unfortunately we did not see the famous Buff-fronted quail-dove that has been coming to feed under the feeders lately.

Male red-headed Barbet, this has got to be the best place in CR to photograph this bird!

Road to La Virgen Del Socorro.

On this day the activity was a bit slow, perhaps due to the hot hours on which we were there. Nonetheless we did see the rufous browed tyrannulet, on the exact same spot where I saw it with friends some days ago! Other birds were black Phoebe, tufted flycatcher, later emerald tanager, swallow-tailed Kite, and more tanager and honeycreeper species. Birding this road is quite good normally and it is a place you must stop if you are around.

On our return we stopped near Freddo Fresas again and were lucky to see a pair of resplendent quetzals near the road! what a way to end our first day with this beautiful bird!

Day 2: we stayed at Cerro lodge, this is an excellent lodge for those who are birding Carara and want to get the best of both worlds; Rainforest and dry forest habitats.
Our day inside Carara was very productive, we got slaty tailed, gartered, black-headed and Baird’s Trogons. Various wren species, orange collared and red-capped Manakins, some antbirds, although hard to choose we agreed our best birds were the close looks we had of Streak-chested antpitta and the young male Yellow-Billed cotinga we saw while returning to Cerro lodge!

Scarlet macaw at Cerro Lodge

Streak chested antpitta. This is what a Canon 300 f2.8 and 7D Mark II can do huh! Not my lens, Ian was so kind to let me use his lens for this picture!

The road of Cerro lodge is a good option for owling, on this night we got Pacific screech-owl and we heard the calls of spectacled owl up in Villa Lapas road.

Pacific Screech-owl

Day 3– we covered the Tarcoles river vicinity and Mangroves, also we birded the road to Cerro lodge and villa Lapas. We were fortunate to get most of the Mangrove specialists such as Mangrove vireo, Northern scrub FC and Panama Flycatcher, yellow (mangrove) warbler and more. Along our drive to San Gerardo de Dota (Trogon lodge) we did some strategical stops and got Double-striped Thickknee, mangrove hummingbird, American pygmy kingfisher and other species. Later while driving up to San Isidro fiery-billed aracary was seen, lucky us as I thought we would had missed this near endemic toucan specie already!



Ferruginous pygmy-owl

Turquoise-browed Motmot

Orange fronted parakeet

Double-striped Thickknee seen in Jaco area

It was fantastic, by the end of the day, we had a total of 187 species in 3 days! Now we were off to a different habitat!

Day 4. San Gerardo de Dota.

To be continued.

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